Camino Day 1: Water on the left
Porto to Labruge along the Litoral Way
You’ll find the usual notes and Relive route map + photos below - but I’m also trying something new: I recorded a short video update. Check it out below and let me know what you think!
Distance walked: 15.4 miles (14.8 km)
Route taken: Porto to Labruge (click here!)
It’s here! Ok I’m really excited and itching to go. I did the awkward dance this morning, trying to quietly gather my things and sneak out without waking my roommates at the hostel. I don’t know if they have earplugs in…oh well. One of them woke me up coming in after 1AM last night so I shouldn’t feel too bad.
Hanging out in the breakfast room awaiting a cup of coffee before heading out. At least my pack is now nicely setup. It was a hot mess last night. I feel relieved.
Today, my plan is to walk along the Douro River and then the sea, starting out on what is called Senda Litoral or The Litoral (Shore) Route. My aim is to walk about 23 km or just over 14 miles (it was longer). This will get me to the town of Labruge, where I’ve pre-booked a room given the limited accommodations*. Let’s go!
I ended up sticking around 30 min longer than planned. This was due to a remarkable experience talking with a fellow pilgrim. For the details of that, check out the video linked at the top of the post.
I set out for the cathedral, retracing my steps from yesterday. I was surprised to see my first confirmed pilgrim at the starting point! I said “Buen Camino” (prob should have said Bom Camhino as I’m in Portugal) to which she smiled and responded “Gracias”, and set out.
Admittedly, I was a little concerned she might want to walk together. I knew I wanted to start solo. I was relieved when she left quickly. The early part of the Senda Litoral isn’t well marked so we took slightly different routes down to the Douro. She ended up ahead of me and I lost her somewhere along the way.
Walking feels really good, my spirits are high, and the miles are ticking away nicely. The route is simple since I just need to keep the water on the left :) The strong sun reminds me of home, and so my pullover was packed away within the first hour and I’m wearing my lame hiking hat (and sunblock). My decision not to eat anything until Matoshinos is catching up to me and so I stopped after 6 miles (just before the town) for a snack.
Coffee and avocado toast (yeah, yeah) rapidly consumed, I’m heading out. Allegedly it will be easy to follow the path from the tourist center just down the road as it will be marked. We shall see. I saw another pilgrim walking along the beach!
Easy path as promised, as there are now some shell markers and (very wee) yellow arrows to mark the way. At times I lose these but knowing the shore is my guidepost it’s easy to get back on track. The temperature remains pleasant and the sea breeze is welcome!
By 10 miles I’m definitely ready to have lunch but I don’t see something that seems the kind of casual I want (as everywhere, the shore here is touristy) until a bit over 11 miles. Can’t beat the view, they have draft beer (Super Bock as always), and any food will be welcome. I’ve seen 8 or 9 others walking their Camino now. I love hearing “Bom Caminho” and enjoy saying it too. Some just wave and smile knowingly as they walk by where I’m having lunch. It all feels communal, which is really nice. It sure lightens the load! Now sated after 2 beers and a sandwich + fries, it’s time to crack on!
The remainder of the walk was unremarkable albeit about a mile longer than I’d estimated earlier. I made the turn into Labruge and before long saw the welcoming sign. My host greeted me warmly, offered me a wee bottle of beer, and I got settled in. As I mentioned in the video recorded in the evening, I had a nice evening out with fellow guesthouse residents, enjoying a meal and conversation.
Did you check out the video? Be sure to let me know what you think. Is it a good accompaniment to the notes? Thanks for your support. Mahalo 🙏
*This turned out to be a wise move. The municipal albergue was closed, despite my earlier communications with them that indicated their renovations would be done by March 4. Knowing how inaccurate construction timelines are, I opted to book a sure thing.
Glad to hear your first day went well and Bom Caminho to you!
Your updates are really relatable as they capture your thoughts, the other human connections and the scenery - and we can enjoy it all vicariously - without the hard work!
As we plan our move into retirement, some form of through hike is definitely on the cards, so this is really inspiring.
Safe and happy hiking Jason :)
Thank you for the great information! My best friend (she will have just retired, too) and I will begin our walk in late April/early May, 2025 and I came across your blog right after I booked our reservation at what looks like the exact same apartment (480). We are also walking the Senda Litoral way and after day two will switch to the Coastal way. I read that there is a tram (#1) from the Cathedral to Passeio Alegre that will cut off 3.7 miles, but unsure if we will take it. Was walking along the Douro River nice? I look forward to reading the rest of your Camino blog!
*Edit: I think you stayed at Smiling Faces, not 480 Apartamento, where we are booked. Unfortunately, Smiling Faces didn't have any rooms for our night in Laburge.